Shifter Quadrant / Nacelle Light

[Jose]

in my esperience, fuses MAY look ok but they may be bad. Best to check with another fuse.

Example: the thin element inside may not look burnt through the glass but one side of the thin element might have disconnected from the metal cap.

Try a different fuse.

[Jose]

I have 2 salvaged Center panels, one from 1964 and one from 1966, and my own car from 1965.

Neither has any Resistor at the headlights switch. This must be a LATE (1967-1968) addition?

What I do notice in the 1966 salvaged panel that I do not have in my car, or in the 1964 salvaged panel, is an inline fuseholder at the top
of the panel and I have no clue what it is for.

See picture below of the 1966 salvage panel wiring and you will see the fuseholder, you can also see the Headlights switch (this one is a Fog Lites switch), there is no Resistor.

headlights-switch-wiring.JPG (99.38 KiB) Viewed 3265 times

[cass3958]

Yes I have the resistor on mine which is a three position light switch 67/68 car.
OK I will just through this one out there. How do you check if the resistor is functioning correctly. I have a multimeter to check the voltages and a power wand to put power in to the resistor but what readings am I looking for to check it is working correctly?

[Jose]

Assuming all else is equal, I wonder what happens if you remove the resistor?

[dennis]

Hi All,
It looks like I opened a can of worms trying to get my trans light to work, I have spent all day checking voltages on the light switch and red&black wires of the trans bulb inserted and removed with all combinations of light switch off, light switch on, ignition off, ignition on and engine running. The wiring loom of the nacelle is as is shown on the picture and connected at the other end OK.
I am not one for giving up, but without knowing how the nacelle is wired in to the rest of the car and the wire colours not always lining up with the wiring diagrams I have, which are the ones shown in the above pictures. Obviously there were wiring changes made to the latest models which I guess were not highlighted at the time. Tomorrow I am going to connect and run wires from the instrument panel bulbs to the trans bulb in the nacelle, which will result in the bulb lighting when the light switch is turned on.

Maybe one day it will all become clear ?
Thanks again for everyone's help,
Dennis

[Jose]

the red wires are for the gauge lights, so if you can find a double bullet connector and connect the red wire from the shifter quadrant light to any of the single bullet connectors with a red wire leading to the gauges, Same with the black ground wire.

Actually, no can of worms, this thread and topic has been eye opening. Let's keep it going

Cass: the order and the color of the stripes on a resistor tell you what the value is and what it should measure voltage wise.

here: https://www.dummies.com/programming/ele ... or-values/

[awiedie]

Here's an update on my recently discovered electrical problems with interior lights.

BW nacelle bulb on with ignition switch but goes off when light switch is turned on. It looks like the resister in my lighting switch, which would dim the bulb when the switch is activated, has given up the ghost. I can live with that and keep my eye out for a new switch.

No panel lights. The switch was bad. I disassembled it and cleaned the contacts, but did not manage to get it reassembled correctly as the panel lights are on all the time now when the lighting switch is turned on. Lots of little parts in that switch. I think I'll look to purchase another one, preferably NOS. Does anyone have one they would like to part with?

No interior or map light. Original Lucas 35A fuse was blown. You would think that Lucas could get more than 55 years out of a fuse! My system works like this - switch position one, map light on; switch position two, interior lights on, map light off. My rear doors have a jamb switch that turns on the interior lights but I have yet to find a switch for the front doors. Where the heck is it?

No fan operation. Fuse OK. I'm going to save that one for another day. Thanks to everyone for all the help.

Jose, I also have a wire behind the panel coming from down below with an inline fuse on it. It goes to the big white wire terminal at the ignition switch. I believe it's for the radio I put in many years ago.

[Glyn Ruck]

Alan ~ the front courtesy light switches are in the lower front door hinge. I will try & find you a pic.

EDIT: Here we go ~ old internet pic.

100_1257_zps6aee5cc4.jpg (120.38 KiB) Viewed 3240 times

Jose ~ the resistor is in your picture shown above. You just don't recognise it. Same as Alan's


Flat disc with 2 tabs. These light switches have had resistors back to the 50's

s type light switch 004.JPG (1.89 MiB) Viewed 3236 times

[Jose]

Glyn I see no resistor. ohh you mean that flat plate is the resistor? I was looking for a RESISTOR like in your picture

resistor.jpg (174.73 KiB) Viewed 3231 times

[Glyn Ruck]

Warning ~ Fuse values


Also remember that Lucas fuse values of 35 & 50 amp etc are old British 1 second blow standard.

Fuses you buy today unless you order specially are American Carry Current rating.

In modern fuse values you should select a fuse of approx half the value of the Lucas rating shown in Jaguar Manuals.

e.g. Lucas Horn fuse = 50 Amps. In modern US rated glass fuses you should fit 25 to 30 amp.

Failure to do this could cause a fire in our car's wiring in case of a short.