by JCS » Mon Sep 13, 2021 3:33 pm
Jim
I suggest that you locate the chassis threaded anchor points before committing to buy an anti-roll bar.
I have not yet fitted my HBE rear bar. One reason is explained below, but since up gearing the rear axle and replacing rear end rubbers and mountings the roll has improved.
I found my car has had a very clean good repair to the righthand chassis leg, but in doing so, the repairer did not replace the threaded anchor plates that capture the anti-roll bar fixture.
Making things more interesting I have a second battery with associated cabling down the chassis and an additional hydraulic type fuel return pipe ready fitted. All these extra fittings foul alignment of the right hand roll bar link and I am reluctant to drill the chassis to accept through bolts at the anchor point.
When I purchased the car, it was fitted with 205 x 15 /70 oversized tyres and in my opinion, it was rather like riding on a balloon and encouraged excessive rolling. Now the car is back on standard 185 tyres handing is improved and the ride is acceptable.
As the car is fitted with rack and pinion power steering, I have ensured that the lower front suspension wishbones are just beyond level under a normal full bump condition and excessive bump /roll is restricted. This restriction prevents the suspension from entering an excessive bump steer situation and it helps the roll condition. In practice I have reduced the free movement gap between the bump rubber and its contact point
My own view is that the car would benefit from a heavier front anti-roll bar and poly bushes without fitting a rear anti-roll bar, but if you need to get serious, the maximum front bump dimension needs reducing in addition.
It is not generally appreciated that vehicle suspensions do not usually exceed 35mm movement either way under normal driving conditions, nor for that matter how much a chassis flexes. Again, my own view, from professional experience, is that you are attempting to add a stronger front anti-roll bar while introducing tyres that are going to increase the roll.
During my investigation of the rear anti-roll bar, I found out that there are differences between the width dimensions of the anti-roll bar attachment centres, there are two types. It is probable that Pressed Steel inadvertently moved these apart during a re-tooling change.
Of cause your mileage may differ………..
Norman
Jim
I suggest that you locate the chassis threaded anchor points before committing to buy an anti-roll bar.
I have not yet fitted my HBE rear bar. One reason is explained below, but since up gearing the rear axle and replacing rear end rubbers and mountings the roll has improved.
I found my car has had a very clean good repair to the righthand chassis leg, but in doing so, the repairer did not replace the threaded anchor plates that capture the anti-roll bar fixture.
Making things more interesting I have a second battery with associated cabling down the chassis and an additional hydraulic type fuel return pipe ready fitted. All these extra fittings foul alignment of the right hand roll bar link and I am reluctant to drill the chassis to accept through bolts at the anchor point.
When I purchased the car, it was fitted with 205 x 15 /70 oversized tyres and in my opinion, it was rather like riding on a balloon and encouraged excessive rolling. Now the car is back on standard 185 tyres handing is improved and the ride is acceptable.
As the car is fitted with rack and pinion power steering, I have ensured that the lower front suspension wishbones are just beyond level under a normal full bump condition and excessive bump /roll is restricted. This restriction prevents the suspension from entering an excessive bump steer situation and it helps the roll condition. In practice I have reduced the free movement gap between the bump rubber and its contact point
My own view is that the car would benefit from a heavier front anti-roll bar and poly bushes without fitting a rear anti-roll bar, but if you need to get serious, the maximum front bump dimension needs reducing in addition.
It is not generally appreciated that vehicle suspensions do not usually exceed 35mm movement either way under normal driving conditions, nor for that matter how much a chassis flexes. Again, my own view, from professional experience, is that you are attempting to add a stronger front anti-roll bar while introducing tyres that are going to increase the roll.
During my investigation of the rear anti-roll bar, I found out that there are differences between the width dimensions of the anti-roll bar attachment centres, there are two types. It is probable that Pressed Steel inadvertently moved these apart during a re-tooling change.
Of cause your mileage may differ………..
Norman