Refitting the chrome

[Glyn Ruck]

Item !5 on your list Glyn the chrome trim below the grille behind the front bumper, I was going to ask about that as my S type has that fitted. My question was, is that a part a Jaguar option, standard fitting or aftermarket factor accessory part. Only it a good idea covering the spot welds and various welding of panels in that area from new, but it is a water trap perhaps.
I have seen it on a very nice red S type NMO 978E at the I.O.W. show last year and on several later Mk 2' 340's with the S type front bumper so was it an option for that type of front bumper ?.
Cheers
Dave J.

Dave ~ Standard fitment from Chassis No 1 both LHD & RHD. Suggest gluing it down or sticking it down with mastic before riveting so no water can collect under it.

[jonesdl]

Just picked up your post Rob you are right it is in the parts book I must have missed it first time looking. So it is a standard fitting I though it was a nice fit around the grille. My one fits up to the grille but not beneath it so it could be fitted without removing the grille. I removed my one before the grille was removed. I will get my one re-chromed now and put plenty of Waxoil under it when refitting.
That's cleared that question up, thanks.

[Glyn Ruck]

Proper fitment will require loosening the grill. The two sharp tongues at either end of the piece go under the grill unless someone has trimmed them. That U shaped piece of the body is variable from car to car as well. They never managed to line up all the panels properly at Pressed Steel before welding.

[jonesdl]

Your list is brilliant Glyn, yet another question I was going to ask is item 2 on your list. All of my chrome trims around the car are fitted as per the parts manual, however the N/S'R door trim has been fitted with the pop rivet alloy angled dome cap that holds the chrome trim in place. The door has been repaired possibly late 1960's early 1970's as you can see the panel beaters dolly marks inside the door to remove a scrape and then repainted and the trim re-fitted with the pop rivet caps.
These are much better than the original spring steel clips and more user friendly are these available in a fitting kit today ? if so from where, as I would prefer to use these when the chrome goes back on.

[Jose]

After I posted I had a look at the parts list and found the chrome under the grill but my car has not got one and it did not come with the car when I bought it so had no idea it existed. I will have to buy one eventually but presumably the grill has to come off to fit it and that is another bitch of a job. I am lucky to have long thin arms because with short fat arms you would never be able to reach the top screws behind the grill through the inspection hatch.

Cass,
if you remove the radiator, access to all the grille nuts and screws is easy. That removable panel ("inspection hatch") is too small for access.

Also you almost need the grille in place to align the chromed finisher with the bottom curve of the grille, UNLESS the factory rivet holes are still there.

[Glyn Ruck]

Dave ~ The original clips are rubbish. The plastic clips are rubbish but you at least don't have to rust protect.

This is what I used supplied by Barratts. They work very well & hold the trim strips securely.

Trim Rivet.JPG (59.72 KiB) Viewed 1796 times

[Glyn Ruck]

Accessing the grill fasteners through the bottom hatch depends entirely on your build. My restorer is 6'6" ~ tall, slim & strong as an ox with slender hands. He had no trouble fitting the grill with the tropical radiator in place. I on the other hand at 6 foot but ahem! portly, would struggle. Find the right shaped friend & invite him for an ale!

[cass3958]

After I posted I had a look at the parts list and found the chrome under the grill but my car has not got one and it did not come with the car when I bought it so had no idea it existed. I will have to buy one eventually but presumably the grill has to come off to fit it and that is another bitch of a job. I am lucky to have long thin arms because with short fat arms you would never be able to reach the top screws behind the grill through the inspection hatch.

Cass,
if you remove the radiator, access to all the grille nuts and screws is easy. That removable panel ("inspection hatch") is too small for access.

Also you almost need the grille in place to align the chromed finisher with the bottom curve of the grille, UNLESS the factory rivet holes are still there.

Jose given a choice of sticking my arm up the access panel whilst lying on my back for ten minutes or removing the radiator which involves draining the engine, removing the radiator cowling, removing the radiator having disconnected all the hoses which will take close to two hours and then having to reverse this for another two hours, plus the cost of new coolant and the risk of scraping the paint work or damaging the radiator fins on the engine fan, I think the ten minute lie down will do me good.

[jonesdl]

First, thanks Glyn they are the pop rivets that are fitted to the N/S/R door, so still available, another problem solved. Second, regarding the grille securing nuts that's where a slim grandson with long arms comes in handy, as i would struggle to be honest.

[Glyn Ruck]

Dave ~ just one tip with the rivet clips. They require a pop riveter with a very slim nozzle. I'm sure those with very fancy riveters with multiple nozzles will find the right size. We just put one of our nozzles in the lathe & turned it down to fit the rivet.