Stiff damper movement.

[Bingo]

I rebuilt the carbs. The piston moves easily without oil in the damper pot.
Once I add mineral oil to the damper chamber, the piston is very difficult to slide up. It takes a bit of effort to push the damper into position.

Is this normal ?

Also appreciate any idea as to what is this wiring .?
The eyelets toward the top of the image connect to the posts on the choke carb.
The two ends toward the bottom connect to two wires from the wiring harness under the fuel bowl.




Jim
64 S type
4 speed/OD

[cass3958]

With the dampers it depends on what you call difficult. Without any oil the dampers slide to the top and in some cases will not come back down as the spring is not strong enough to counter the friction of the damper piston and misalignment of the needle. With others the pistons fall like stones back into place which could be a sign of too much wear on the pistons.
With oil the dampers are supposed to stiff to push up and should fall back but with a gradual decent not a sudden fall. Think of trying to depress a shock absorber. Stiff to compress but slowly release to full length when the pressure is removed.

As for the wires in the photo they are not original connectors especially that plastics connector but the wires I think you will find are a live wire from the ignition to the AED (Automatic Enrichment Device) and an earth which goes to the Otter switch. You can check the continuity between one of the wires and the wire going to the Otter switch which is on top of the inlet manifold and has a triangular bass with one wire spade connector on top. The wires with the round ends on an original set up should be female spade connectors that fit on to the male posts on top of the AED solenoid. Perhaps the plastic connector has been added to allow the AED to be disconnected without having to unscrew the round connects.

[Bingo]

Thank you Rob.

Another question. Is there a spring that runs from the bell crank level to the pivot point where the throttle shaft and steady bar meet ?


It seems a spring would help the accelerator pedal return to its original position.

Jim

[Glyn Ruck]

You need very gentle springs times 2 on the carbs to return throttle to prevent wear of the carb body where the spindle enters. This should have no ill effect on a properly set up throttle pedal & lubricated linkage. If you use stiffer springs WOT (wide open throttle) is impossible. Don't add extra springs to the mechanism.

Roller pedals were not considered sufficiently progressive so later cars had this arrangement,

Throttle2.JPG (79.28 KiB) Viewed 1170 times

throttle springs 1.JPG (164.02 KiB) Viewed 1170 times

Carbs1.JPG (40.63 KiB) Viewed 1170 times

[cass3958]

As Glyn states. No spring on the pedal but two on the carbs as per the diagram and photo above.

[Bingo]

Thank you Glyn and Rob,

I am back on the road !

Just need to adjust the slave cylinder pushrod so the clutch engages/disengages.

Jim

[Glyn Ruck]

Good news & a pleasure!