PAS pump removal

[RollyTG]

Do you mean the engine mount?

[cass3958]

I agree I had not noticed how compressed the engine mount was in the photo. Easy to replace both sides whilst you have the alternator off. I had one of mine fail last year and it sent the fan through the radiator as the engine twisted under torque. Cost over £500 for the radiator to be recored for the sake of two £10 engine mounts.

[RollyTG]

OK thanks gentlemen. I will order replacements and do that before I finish the dynamo job. I have the replacement dynamo in place and I am working on refitting the PAS pump. It is not going easily and I don't want to force it and break something. Is there a trick to it to make it easier?

[cass3958]

The trick is patience.

Getting the coupling to line up is possibly the hardest part so I rotated the dynamo until they lined up and it slipped in. I packed the area with a little grease so all the coupling parts stayed in place and for lubrication of the dogs. Hardest bolt to get in was the inner bottom bolt but I was able to get a long thin extension on the bolt from the other side of the exhaust manifold.

[RollyTG]

OK - an update. My electrical guy says he can save the old C48 for a reasonable amount, but the reason it failed appears to be a leak of power steering fluid into the back of the thing. I did notice some fluid in the space between the pump and dynamo and I now know that this is probably not normal and is most likely detrimental. I managed to find a new Dynalite for a reasonable price so I have ordered that. It's only money, right. So, it seems that I will have to do some work on the PAS pump before I install a nice new alternator. Is that something I could maybe do myself if I get an appropriate kit? What do you think gents?

[cass3958]

I have not done a PAS pump yet but I now have three and during the next rainy season I am planning on stripping one down. There is a seal kit on EBay at https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-DAIML ... 3075006902

If you are just replacing the seals it should be fairly straight forward but if there is any wear that you find inside finding replacement parts would be very difficult. None of mine leak but my original pump stopped pumping which leads me to believe there is wear inside so that is the one I will strip down first because I am nosey to see why it stopped pumping.

[JCS]

RollyTG

You have probably gone by the point of return, but you might want to consider the following mods that we used over 50 years ago on XK engines. I am afraid it’s from memory :-

Firstly, the fan belt loading caused Jaguar to use an automatic belt tensioner and a multi vee belt as the loadings started to rise. The increased electrical loads and more efficient water pumps and fans for example, placed that single belt drive on its limits, particularly in bad weather at night. Along came the alternators in the mid 60’s and belt problems rocketed……..we now see a repeat of that exercise taking place.

If you have not yet had the broken “Jaguar Fan Belt” experience you need to be ready, it always happens on a cold, dark, wet night when the amp meter swings to full discharge and the ignition light illuminates.

If you are having trouble mounting the dynamo / alternator and power steering pump think what is going to happen if the engine throws a belt out on the road !!

This is roughly how we made things easier on Jaguar Mk X’s and it translates to the S Type. We changed the three studs that are screwed into the rear dynamo back plate, that is the plate holding the power steering pump. The reason is, those three studs are /were threaded UNC both ends, requiring UNC nuts. If one of these nuts was to be dropped and lost, replacing them is extremely difficult, however UNF nuts are / were easier to obtain. We would therefore adapt three UNC/UNF studs as used on the inlet manifolds, so that all that assembly had UNF nuts.This was more convenient if the PAS pump needed to be detached in situ by a remote garage.

We then modified the lower dynamo bracket (see your images on 27th May) by capturing the dynamo to bracket nuts. Usually that was done by welding the nuts but some were done by drilling and tapping the bracket and nuts, when welding was not available. The term “nuts” I have used, but sometimes we would use small metal blocks, which were easier to weld. Once the nuts were captured it was possible to use set screws at each end to hold the front and rear dynamo brackets, a single spanner/socket operation. This allowed not only easier assembly, we fitted dynamo’s and pumps as one unit, as alignment and access to the two set screws was easy and simple. Not only that, but slacking off the two set screws to allow belt adjustment was a few minutes, one handed, no struggle work.

Set Screw here means shanked bolt not threaded right up to under hex head

[JCS]

Duplicated Message Removed

[RollyTG]

Thanks for all that great advice. I need all I can get. Did you work in Jaguar service?

[RollyTG]

Update on this issue. Thanks to the advice of two helpful member i now have two shiny new engine mounts. Picture. They were in very bad condition and one of them separated as I was unbolting it. I also welded nuts onto my dynamo bracket to make removal and refitting easier. Thanks gents. The left side mount was quite easy but right was really difficult, even after I removed the distributor. Not something I want to do again that's for sure.

I am now ready to replace the main seal in the power steering pump but I am not 100% sure that the seal supplied by Barratts is exactly the right size. It seems that the outer diameter is a tad small, but it looks like the hole is tapered somewhat so maybe it will fit tightly when pressed all the way in. Any advice on that welcome.

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