PAS pump removal

[RollyTG]

I need to swap out my generator which is not working. Of course this involves taking off the power steering pump and that daunts me a little. Are there any tips or traps to avoid in this process? The workshop manual makes it sound ridiculously easy, but I suspect it is not really so. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[cass3958]

The pump is attached to the back of the generator with three bolts. Release these three 7/16 bolts and the pump comes away from the generator and you can let it hang free on the hydraulic pipes. There is no need to disconnect the hydraulic hoses. Between the back of the generator and the pump there is a coupling housing which is a round housing with two metal Drive dogs. These might fall out but they are meant to and will need greasing on reassembly. Once the pump is out of the way the generator is removed easily in the normal way although there is not a lot of space to get to the bolts but that you have to get used to working under the bonnet of the S Type.
Don't forget to disconnect the terminal on the battery as the terminal on the generator is a direct line to the battery live.

[RollyTG]

Thank you. That's what I was hoping to hear. I was not looking forward to messing with the hydraulics. My car came with an extra generator with pump attached in a miscellaneous parts box so I have been able to see how the linkage works. The "spare" generator has been tested and found to work OK, so I will put it in place of the one that came on the car, which appears to be an older one from something like a Mark IX. It is a C48. The one I will be putting in is a C45. When I get this swap done and chase the gremlins out of the turn signals and brake lights she'll be good to go for a proper test drive. We don't have to pass inspections here so I can get away with some shortcomings. Thanks for your help. I'll post how it all goes.

[John Quilter]

Rob, I recently had the C48 generator and PS pump in my possession after the shop doing the engine overhaul gave it to me to clean up and paint. Just for my info I weighed it...38 pounds for the combined unit! So I think if I were removing and refitting it myself, I would put straps around it to lower it into position so the mounting bolts could be inserted. An assistant to help lower it into position would be very helpful.

[RollyTG]

Thanks for the tip John.

[cass3958]

Good tip John they are Bloody heavy as is the starter motor. Jaguar seemed to build these old cars by the pound and that is weight not money. The new Dynalite alternator I fitted weighs about half that of the generator and I also fitted a new high torque starter motor which again was about half the weight of the original starter motor.

[JCS]

Rolly

It is probably too late to comment, but besides the problem of total weight of the assembly, the bottom dynamo bolts and nuts are not easy to access. In fact trying to change a fan belt at the side of the road can be difficult to say the least.

However, as you are removing the dynamo this is the time to make this task easier. I modified the arrangement in place, by making steel blocks to fit inside the dynamo / engine mounting bracket. These blocks were drilled and tapped to accept the low dynamo mounting bolts and when these blocks were in place they could not rotate. In short the blocks replace the lower dynamo nuts.
I then drilled the bracket and blocks to accept two set screws at 90 degrees which held the blocks in place on the bracket. It would be possible to weld the blocks to the dynamo mounting bracket but I preferred to just bolt the blocks as I was working with the engine in place.

This arrangement makes it easy to enter two set screws through the dynamo end plates and bracket, and tighten both screws with a ratchet, bar and socket as needed without having to struggle with two wrenches.

There are at least two different dynamo brackets and a number of different dynamos. It is possible that the combinations allow the dynamo mounting lugs to embrace the mounting bracket and /or spacers in different ways. As a wrong position could result in out of alignment of the belt run, you need to be aware, particularly if you are changing dynamo types.

[RollyTG]

Not too late. I haven't gotten around to it yet. I was thinking that there must be a better way to handle those lower bolts. I will look at when I get it out. Thanks.

[RollyTG]

Well, I have finally bitten the bullet and taken out the Dynamo to replace it with a functional spare that came in a box of bits with the car. The good news is that the power steering drive dog bits look to be in great shape so I won't be up for a big expense there. On the downside the Dynamo I took off is a C48 - standard I believe - while the intended replacement is a C45 and has a totally different mount bracket that matches up with three bolt holes higher up on the side of the block. A bit of research suggests that it might be from an E-type. This arrangement looks a lot easier to install and uninstall than the presumably stock mount. So - my question is - will the replacement unit I have fit properly or will I have issues with alignment etc, or will the smaller dynamo be underpowered? Pictures of the existing mount and the replacement bracket. Any suggestions appreciated.

[John Quilter]

If it is really from an E Type it will not have the rear plate provision to mount the PS pump. Some things to consider, if the location changes will the hoses for the PS pump reach? Will you be able to find a belt that accommodates the new location? If it were my car, I would find a good electrical shop to rebuild the C48 unit. Usually it only take a front and rear bearing and a set of brushes and a good cleanup of the commutator. Sell the C45 on to defray expenses. And looking at my vintage Lucas catalog, early 3.8 liter E Types took a part number 22902. Also shows a 22528 for a Mark II with power steering.