Front NDV/Quarterlight seals.
- Glyn Ruck
- Posts: 1619
- Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2018 2:14 pm
- Location: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
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Re: Front NDV/Quarterlight seals.
I'm sure Rob, Orlando or I would gladly do one the next time we replace them. I did not photograph & this procedure calls for pics to be helpful. My doors are closed & sealed up tight & I don't want to disturb them again. This job can only be done with access to the NDV lower frame spindle, index sleeve/collar, spring & bush.
Loosely speaking.
1) You remove NDV upper pivot 41/42
2) You access door & undo nut on lower spindle (be careful ~ they rust & you can shear off the spindle. Penetrating oil advised)
3) Remove nut, washer, spring, bushes, pin, index sleeve/collar. 45/43/44
4) Extract NDV spindle from frame.
5) Extract rubber seal from frame.
6) Insert new rubber seal.
7) Refit NDV spindle in frame.
8) Reassemble in reverse order.
9) Lubricate mechanism with long life grease before closing up.
Advice from others encouraged to improve.
Loosely speaking.
1) You remove NDV upper pivot 41/42
2) You access door & undo nut on lower spindle (be careful ~ they rust & you can shear off the spindle. Penetrating oil advised)
3) Remove nut, washer, spring, bushes, pin, index sleeve/collar. 45/43/44
4) Extract NDV spindle from frame.
5) Extract rubber seal from frame.
6) Insert new rubber seal.
7) Refit NDV spindle in frame.
8) Reassemble in reverse order.
9) Lubricate mechanism with long life grease before closing up.
Advice from others encouraged to improve.
1965 Jaguar 3.8 S Type, Sync4, OD, PAS, BRG/Biscuit on chrome wires.
http://www.jagstyperegister.com/forum_n ... ?f=3&t=152
A1B56966DN
http://www.jagstyperegister.com/forum_n ... ?f=3&t=152
A1B56966DN
Re: Front NDV/Quarterlight seals.
I concur with Glyn on this and also have no photos as its a pretty easy job to do when you are assembling the door frames before putting them back in during a rebuild but not if you are trying to do it on a Saturday afternoon.
If you are replacing the quarter light seals because they are in the car and leak, you may as well do all the window seals as they will no doubt all be ready for a change and as the seals stop water getting in to the bottom of the door you will be doing yourself a favour in stopping the bottom of the doors rusting out.
To get the window frames out and on to the bench is not hard but is time consuming and fiddly. You have to remove the hard wear from the door card and the wood capping, then the door card itself. if your window seals have been leaking you will possibly find that the bottom of your door cards are rotten, warped and all the door clips rusted out. You might also find some water damage on the wooden door capping that you might want to rub down and get re varnished. There are several screws that hold the upper window seal and chrome strip in place. There are a couple of bolts that hold the chrome window frame in place and then the whole lots lifts out. I can't remember if the glass comes out before the frame or with the frame but the window winding mechanism needs to be disengaged. Space is a problem as you are working through a couple of hand sized holes in the back of the door frame.
Once you have the window frames out I would suggest Waxoyling the bottoms of the doors inside, cleaning out the drain holes and greasing all the mechanisms. Another case of one little five minute job of replacing a quarter light window seal turning in to a major refurbishment of the doors as it would be pointless to go a quarter of the way of dismantling only to have to repeat it all next year to do the other seals.
Maybe one door per weekend.
If you are replacing the quarter light seals because they are in the car and leak, you may as well do all the window seals as they will no doubt all be ready for a change and as the seals stop water getting in to the bottom of the door you will be doing yourself a favour in stopping the bottom of the doors rusting out.
To get the window frames out and on to the bench is not hard but is time consuming and fiddly. You have to remove the hard wear from the door card and the wood capping, then the door card itself. if your window seals have been leaking you will possibly find that the bottom of your door cards are rotten, warped and all the door clips rusted out. You might also find some water damage on the wooden door capping that you might want to rub down and get re varnished. There are several screws that hold the upper window seal and chrome strip in place. There are a couple of bolts that hold the chrome window frame in place and then the whole lots lifts out. I can't remember if the glass comes out before the frame or with the frame but the window winding mechanism needs to be disengaged. Space is a problem as you are working through a couple of hand sized holes in the back of the door frame.
Once you have the window frames out I would suggest Waxoyling the bottoms of the doors inside, cleaning out the drain holes and greasing all the mechanisms. Another case of one little five minute job of replacing a quarter light window seal turning in to a major refurbishment of the doors as it would be pointless to go a quarter of the way of dismantling only to have to repeat it all next year to do the other seals.
Maybe one door per weekend.
Rob.C. P1B8973BW
1968 S Type 3.4 Auto. Old English White.
1993 Yamaha FJ1200 Yellow
1966 Ford Anglia 1760 cross flow (still being built)
2012 Old English sheep dog. Grey and white.
http://torbayweddingcarclub.co.uk/?page_id=57
1968 S Type 3.4 Auto. Old English White.
1993 Yamaha FJ1200 Yellow
1966 Ford Anglia 1760 cross flow (still being built)
2012 Old English sheep dog. Grey and white.
http://torbayweddingcarclub.co.uk/?page_id=57
- Glyn Ruck
- Posts: 1619
- Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2018 2:14 pm
- Location: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
- Contact:
Re: Front NDV/Quarterlight seals.
One also needs to remember that if you are doing window frame removal from the doors that they have to be sealed back to the top of the doors when refitting & there is a packing piece that goes under the rear NDV's. If you don't do this you have leaks & wind noise. Jaguar used a Prestik type material for this sealing that aged badly. I used non acetic acid curing black RTV sealer. So when I say my doors are stuck together they are truly sealed & stuck together. All mechanisms refurbished & re-plated. Greased for life & doors liberally coated with Tectyl internally. Door cards totally protected from water.
1965 Jaguar 3.8 S Type, Sync4, OD, PAS, BRG/Biscuit on chrome wires.
http://www.jagstyperegister.com/forum_n ... ?f=3&t=152
A1B56966DN
http://www.jagstyperegister.com/forum_n ... ?f=3&t=152
A1B56966DN
Re: Front NDV/Quarterlight seals.
Once I had completed the last entry I suddenly thought that in my Attic I had my spare window frames and quarter lights so I dragged them out and have taken some photos to show. You will note that on the swivel mechanism that Glyn talked about removing which he called the NDV upper pivot there are two screws to the frame which you can remove so the whole hinge comes away.
On the lower spindle on this one there are two 3/8 nuts that act as locknuts against each other and the spindle is very fine. If rusty or seized this could easily shear off.
As Glyn stated there is a nut or two in my case, a washer, spring, the pivot index sleeve which controls the degree of opening and then a bush No 44 on Glyn's diagram. This is held in place with a spring pin which has to be punched out before the bush can be removed and the quarter light removed from the frame.
The first photos show the groove that the rubber seal fits into long gone from this window frame.
Hope this and the photos help.
On the lower spindle on this one there are two 3/8 nuts that act as locknuts against each other and the spindle is very fine. If rusty or seized this could easily shear off.
As Glyn stated there is a nut or two in my case, a washer, spring, the pivot index sleeve which controls the degree of opening and then a bush No 44 on Glyn's diagram. This is held in place with a spring pin which has to be punched out before the bush can be removed and the quarter light removed from the frame.
The first photos show the groove that the rubber seal fits into long gone from this window frame.
Hope this and the photos help.
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Rob.C. P1B8973BW
1968 S Type 3.4 Auto. Old English White.
1993 Yamaha FJ1200 Yellow
1966 Ford Anglia 1760 cross flow (still being built)
2012 Old English sheep dog. Grey and white.
http://torbayweddingcarclub.co.uk/?page_id=57
1968 S Type 3.4 Auto. Old English White.
1993 Yamaha FJ1200 Yellow
1966 Ford Anglia 1760 cross flow (still being built)
2012 Old English sheep dog. Grey and white.
http://torbayweddingcarclub.co.uk/?page_id=57
- Glyn Ruck
- Posts: 1619
- Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2018 2:14 pm
- Location: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
- Contact:
Re: Front NDV/Quarterlight seals.
Thanks for that Rob ~ "A picture is worth a thousand words". I had forgotten there were 2 nuts per spindle (that is correct per parts manual). My spare frames are in Johannesburg.
That spindle is in great condition. I had 6 NDV's and some of the spindles were a real mess with corrosion. Sent a good set for rechroming.
Ahem! ~ Why do you think I know they can shear off
~ Ahem!
That spindle is in great condition. I had 6 NDV's and some of the spindles were a real mess with corrosion. Sent a good set for rechroming.
Ahem! ~ Why do you think I know they can shear off


1965 Jaguar 3.8 S Type, Sync4, OD, PAS, BRG/Biscuit on chrome wires.
http://www.jagstyperegister.com/forum_n ... ?f=3&t=152
A1B56966DN
http://www.jagstyperegister.com/forum_n ... ?f=3&t=152
A1B56966DN
Re: Front NDV/Quarterlight seals.
Cass, nice pictures. You don't have a Yellow Lab by any chance, do you?
1964 3.8 S Type LHD DG Auto Opalescent Silver Grey over red
1966 E Type FHC Carmen Red over black
1966 E Type FHC Carmen Red over black
Re: Front NDV/Quarterlight seals.
When refitting the frames to the doors use something like this that is non hardening and very similar to the original mastic type of sealant originally fitted by the factory. I bought this stuff from Woollies many years ago for this job and it's still soft.
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- sealant.jpg (213.31 KiB) Viewed 3307 times
1964 Jaguar 3.8 S Type 1B50442BW (since 1976)
2012 VW Up!
2022 VW Multivan (T7 Transporter)
2024 (2025 MY) Hyundai Tucson
2012 VW Up!
2022 VW Multivan (T7 Transporter)
2024 (2025 MY) Hyundai Tucson
- Glyn Ruck
- Posts: 1619
- Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2018 2:14 pm
- Location: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
- Contact:
Re: Front NDV/Quarterlight seals.
Thanks for the good tip Nigel. I could not find anything like that here that had a decent reputation so I used a Den Braven slow cure product that came highly recommended & remains flexible.
1965 Jaguar 3.8 S Type, Sync4, OD, PAS, BRG/Biscuit on chrome wires.
http://www.jagstyperegister.com/forum_n ... ?f=3&t=152
A1B56966DN
http://www.jagstyperegister.com/forum_n ... ?f=3&t=152
A1B56966DN
Re: Front NDV/Quarterlight seals.
I've noticed many S Type's, Mk2's etc. that have used various products to seal the frames and most have cracked even on concours cars.
This is how mine is doing after fifteen years of use with the above product. Use under the chrome strip that holds the window scraper seal as well.
This is how mine is doing after fifteen years of use with the above product. Use under the chrome strip that holds the window scraper seal as well.
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- door frame.jpg (152.16 KiB) Viewed 3301 times
1964 Jaguar 3.8 S Type 1B50442BW (since 1976)
2012 VW Up!
2022 VW Multivan (T7 Transporter)
2024 (2025 MY) Hyundai Tucson
2012 VW Up!
2022 VW Multivan (T7 Transporter)
2024 (2025 MY) Hyundai Tucson
Re: Front NDV/Quarterlight seals.
I am a Guide dog Puppy trainer or as you Americans call them "A seeing Eye dog". At the moment I have a 9 month old Golden retriever puppy called Alice I am training (our forth) and yes this was her blanket I took the photos on. But this is changing the subject somewhat.lol.
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Rob.C. P1B8973BW
1968 S Type 3.4 Auto. Old English White.
1993 Yamaha FJ1200 Yellow
1966 Ford Anglia 1760 cross flow (still being built)
2012 Old English sheep dog. Grey and white.
http://torbayweddingcarclub.co.uk/?page_id=57
1968 S Type 3.4 Auto. Old English White.
1993 Yamaha FJ1200 Yellow
1966 Ford Anglia 1760 cross flow (still being built)
2012 Old English sheep dog. Grey and white.
http://torbayweddingcarclub.co.uk/?page_id=57
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