by JCS » Fri Apr 01, 2022 7:32 pm
Rolly
That is the standard pinion locking nut. The steel wings on the nut lock into the pinion threads, steel is used instead of nylon as the latter is apt to melt under influence of heat.
Firstly, ensure absolutely that there is not the slightest movement in the pinion bearings.
Before moving the nut, take a very, very accurate measurement from the end of the pinion to the face of the nut. If necessary, peal back one of the steel wings to access the face of the nut to accomplish the measurement. Take at least six measurements, call the average of the six measurements, distance “A”.
Your image of the flange tells me that the flange has not been seated correctly against the propeller shaft. Therefore, the flange needs refacing on a lathe, concentric with the seal facing. Before that is done measure the depth of the flange locating spigot from the flange face, it will be about 0.100 inch, we will call it measurement “B”. That spigot is the section that extends forward of the main flange face in your image.
Once the flange face has been machined true, then machine the face of your locating spigot so that it is measurement “B” less 0.015 inch. In essence if your original measurement “B” was 0.100 inch, then machine to now make it 0.085 inch. This ensures that the spigot is not fouling (bottoming) in the prop shaft mating face. At the same time have the machinist take about 0.002 inch off the circumference of the spigot. You will also find it advantageous to take about 0.002 inch off the flange oil sealing contact face to present the seal with an unworn running facing.
Many of the axle drive flanges have been bolted up to the prop shaft off square and the machining described above will ensure good contact facing once again. To complete the picture, you need to check the appropriate facings of the prop shaft. This can be done best if you strip the rear universal joint. At the very least check the face with engineering blue using the re-machined pinion flange as the master unit.
Beware of the current genuine Jaguar oil seals being too deep for the differential casing and fouling the pinion flange right on the radius of the flange, so tearing away at the seal.
When assembling tap the face of your pinion nut wings so they will foul the thread and after replacing the nut tighten it to achieve distance “A” again PLUS 1/20th of a turn. If necessary fit a new nut but ensure the depth is identical to your original nut.
Jack up the front of the car slightly higher than the rear, this will prevent axle oil flooding forward while you are working. Coat the axle casing oil seal locating groove and the inside of the drive flange splines (NOT the pinion splines) with sealer that will withstand EP oils.
Norman
Rolly
That is the standard pinion locking nut. The steel wings on the nut lock into the pinion threads, steel is used instead of nylon as the latter is apt to melt under influence of heat.
Firstly, ensure absolutely that there is not the slightest movement in the pinion bearings.
Before moving the nut, take a very, very accurate measurement from the end of the pinion to the face of the nut. If necessary, peal back one of the steel wings to access the face of the nut to accomplish the measurement. Take at least six measurements, call the average of the six measurements, distance “A”.
Your image of the flange tells me that the flange has not been seated correctly against the propeller shaft. Therefore, the flange needs refacing on a lathe, concentric with the seal facing. Before that is done measure the depth of the flange locating spigot from the flange face, it will be about 0.100 inch, we will call it measurement “B”. That spigot is the section that extends forward of the main flange face in your image.
Once the flange face has been machined true, then machine the face of your locating spigot so that it is measurement “B” less 0.015 inch. In essence if your original measurement “B” was 0.100 inch, then machine to now make it 0.085 inch. This ensures that the spigot is not fouling (bottoming) in the prop shaft mating face. At the same time have the machinist take about 0.002 inch off the circumference of the spigot. You will also find it advantageous to take about 0.002 inch off the flange oil sealing contact face to present the seal with an unworn running facing.
Many of the axle drive flanges have been bolted up to the prop shaft off square and the machining described above will ensure good contact facing once again. To complete the picture, you need to check the appropriate facings of the prop shaft. This can be done best if you strip the rear universal joint. At the very least check the face with engineering blue using the re-machined pinion flange as the master unit.
Beware of the current genuine Jaguar oil seals being too deep for the differential casing and fouling the pinion flange right on the radius of the flange, so tearing away at the seal.
When assembling tap the face of your pinion nut wings so they will foul the thread and after replacing the nut tighten it to achieve distance “A” again PLUS 1/20th of a turn. If necessary fit a new nut but ensure the depth is identical to your original nut.
Jack up the front of the car slightly higher than the rear, this will prevent axle oil flooding forward while you are working. Coat the axle casing oil seal locating groove and the inside of the drive flange splines (NOT the pinion splines) with sealer that will withstand EP oils.
Norman