by JCS » Wed Apr 24, 2024 10:58 am
I would suggest that you make sure that the drive shaft coupling flanges are perfectly mated, particularly the rear one coupling to the axle pinion.
You also need to pay attention to the engine / gearbox mounts.
When I purchased my car some clown had tightened the rear flanges so much out of position that the drive shaft flange was bent. No wonder he could not get rid of vibration!! When I was rebuilding R-R axles in a previous life for a hobby nearly every drive flange needed re-machining.
The same car had one roller of a "Timken" front wheel bearing that was "blue" and worn flat. As only one roller was affected it could have been hard to find. Obviously a warning to be sure from whom you buy critical parts as this roller was not genuine Timken. The vibration from that roller tended to increase during turns, but it was slight and would not have been all that obvious to an inexperienced driver.
I would suggest that you make sure that the drive shaft coupling flanges are perfectly mated, particularly the rear one coupling to the axle pinion.
You also need to pay attention to the engine / gearbox mounts.
When I purchased my car some clown had tightened the rear flanges so much out of position that the drive shaft flange was bent. No wonder he could not get rid of vibration!! When I was rebuilding R-R axles in a previous life for a hobby nearly every drive flange needed re-machining.
The same car had one roller of a "Timken" front wheel bearing that was "blue" and worn flat. As only one roller was affected it could have been hard to find. Obviously a warning to be sure from whom you buy critical parts as this roller was not genuine Timken. The vibration from that roller tended to increase during turns, but it was slight and would not have been all that obvious to an inexperienced driver.