Shifter Quadrant / Nacelle Light

Post a reply

Smilies
:D :) ;) :( :o :shock: :? 8-) :lol: :x :P :oops: :cry: :evil: :twisted: :roll: :!: :?: :idea: :arrow: :| :mrgreen: :geek: :ugeek:
BBCode is ON
[img] is ON
[url] is ON
Smilies are ON
Topic review
   

If you wish to attach one or more files enter the details below.

Expand view Topic review: Shifter Quadrant / Nacelle Light

Re: Shifter Quadrant / Nacelle Light

by Glyn Ruck » Sat Feb 23, 2019 11:04 pm

If you have checked all connections & established that no indicator/warning light with sidelights burning is as a result of a failed resistor. The replacement resistor value should be 47 Ohms 10% tolerance & a minimum rating of half a watt.

Re: Shifter Quadrant / Nacelle Light

by Glyn Ruck » Wed Feb 20, 2019 11:35 pm

Here is another example of using a voltage dropper resistor to dim the heated rear window indicator light when the sidelights are activated at night.

The circuit for the heated rear window switch & indicator light. As this was a later fitment Jaguar included a 6RA Relay & dropper resistor for the sole purpose of dimming the warning light at night so as to match the rest of the car.


Heated window circuit..JPG
Heated window circuit..JPG (53.03 KiB) Viewed 3710 times

Re: Shifter Quadrant / Nacelle Light

by Glyn Ruck » Wed Feb 20, 2019 10:27 pm

No it's not the problem. If the voltage stabaliser was blown none of the instruments would work apart from the ammeter which is direct wired & the Speedo which is mechanical. None of the panel lights would work either. While old technology the voltage stabaliser tries to see that the instruments etc. see a constant 12 volts. The charging circuit operates from discharge to an approx cut out of 14.2 volts by the regulator. The instruments etc. do not want to see that sort of voltage fluctuation. e.g. without the voltage stabaliser the fuel gauge reading would vary with the charging rate.

The resistor achieves the voltage drop to dim the warning lights when the sidelights etc are switched on. See the wiring diagram.

Re: Shifter Quadrant / Nacelle Light

by Jose » Wed Feb 20, 2019 10:14 pm

that might be the problem, not the resistor.

Looks to me the "resistor" shown in the headlights switch is more like a "JUMPER" from one terminal to another.

that voltage stabilizer should be tested, it could be causing the problem with Alan's panel lights.

Re: Shifter Quadrant / Nacelle Light

by Glyn Ruck » Wed Feb 20, 2019 10:08 pm

It is a voltage stabaliser. It's stops panel lights etc dimming & brightening at different charge rates from the Dynamo & ensures constant voltage to the instruments etc.

Re: Shifter Quadrant / Nacelle Light

by Jose » Wed Feb 20, 2019 10:04 pm

awiedie wrote: ↑Wed Feb 20, 2019 9:41 pm Spot on, Jose. The nut is part of the switch body and came right out with a 1/2" socket. I cleaned all the surfaces and voila, interior lights again on door opening. The first photo is the door switch, the second the interior of that interior/panel switch.S Type switches 002.JPGS Type switches 001.JPG
excellent Alan. Glad you nailed that problem. Both of the switches look clean, unrusted.

What is part number 7 in the plate below? Is it an Instruments Voltage Regulator? Does it have anything to do with the panel lights? I am wondering if that is the problem, not the lights switch.

instruments-voltage-regulator.jpg
instruments-voltage-regulator.jpg (87.28 KiB) Viewed 3734 times
Number 7.jpg
Number 7.jpg (131.28 KiB) Viewed 3734 times

Re: Shifter Quadrant / Nacelle Light

by Glyn Ruck » Wed Feb 20, 2019 9:49 pm

awiedie wrote: ↑Wed Feb 20, 2019 5:30 pm Forget that last comment about pulling the circlip to remove the resistor, I can see now that the resistor appears to be held down with the terminal screws. There is a part number in the Lucas electrics book for the resistor, however - 54334020. Probably never find one though.

Now that I have located my front door plunge switch, I find that there must be a bad ground at the switch because the light now comes on but sometimes bright and sometimes dim and sometimes not at all. The switch/ wire connection is not accessible from inside the car. If you removed the nut at the plunger, could you withdraw the wire and switch back through the grommet hole in the side panel?
Alan ~ I doubt that you will find a genuine 54334020 but I'm sure Radio Shack or some electronics store can provide you with a suitable resistor.
The switch should retract & bring the wire & bullet connector with it. Harness access requires you remove the kick panel.

Give them a good spray with CRC Switch cleaner. It's the right stuff!

EDIT: Sorry ~ we all posted over one another.

Re: Shifter Quadrant / Nacelle Light

by awiedie » Wed Feb 20, 2019 9:41 pm

Spot on, Jose. The nut is part of the switch body and came right out with a 1/2" socket. I cleaned all the surfaces and voila, interior lights again on door opening. The first photo is the door switch, the second the interior of that interior/panel switch.
S Type switches 002.JPG
S Type switches 002.JPG (2.32 MiB) Viewed 3742 times
S Type switches 001.JPG
S Type switches 001.JPG (2 MiB) Viewed 3742 times

Re: Shifter Quadrant / Nacelle Light

by Glyn Ruck » Wed Feb 20, 2019 9:35 pm

Orlando St.R wrote: ↑Wed Feb 20, 2019 11:54 am Thanks, Glyn, for the extremely valuable info re fuses. Now I look, some suppliers do make it clear that they are continuous current rated, eg: https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... tegory/243 and https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/30mm-gla ... fuses.html.

I think that would explain a couple of times where, whilst working on the car, I would have expected a fuse to blow but it hasn't.

The Durite branded fuses seem to be most useful, since they display both the continuous current and blow ratings in the fuse: https://www.gsparkplug.com/durite-fuse- ... 74-35.html
Yes ~ You don't want any 50amp continuous rating fuses in your Jag. :) You are lucky you have decent options in the UK. I got all my fuses from the UK.

Here you can only get US Rated stuff.

Re: Shifter Quadrant / Nacelle Light

by Jose » Wed Feb 20, 2019 7:13 pm

those switches always corrode inside, similar principle as the glovebox switch.

I have had good luck spraying WD40 or similar through the front of the switch and pushing and releasing it many times to clean the contact area.

you might find original door switches or you can also use the ones found in XJ- or any other car for that matter.

As far as I remember fixing mine, the door switches in the S type are screwed on to the metal, i.e., the door jamp metal is threaded. Release the nut and see if you can unscrew it out.

Top